AZ model 1/48th Zlin Z-50M (trainer a/c)
This is my first kit since 4 years on my absence in modelling world. Thinking to complete the kit straight from the box, I ended up spent more hours to built this than average kit. I purchase this kit from e-bay barnysmodellbaushop.
Eastern Block mold is quite crude. A lot of sanding and aligning to ensure good fittings. Plastic is hard to cut but easier to sand. Mold mark (mold pin) is quite annoying to remove. The kit comes with subtle engrave panel lines, raised panels in some areas to replicate the real panels on the actual aircraft and rivets on the wings surface. However this is interesting subject and the only 1/48th Zlin in the market.
It supposed to be a weekend project straight forward assembly kinda thing. But i just can't resist to upgrade the cockpit which been provided with photo-etched fret for the instrument panels. With reference photo's in hand, I decided to go ahead with the minor surgery.
Few modification was made, especially on the cockpit which been scratch build to enhance the details since its visible through the big bubble canopy.
The kit:
3 plastic sprue and 1 clear canopy plus photo etched fret and resins for Z50M spinner and blades.
The resins and photo etched
The major parts... and it all begins
here...
The cockpit floor... major
surgery is on the way...
Dry fitting... looks good with no major gap...
The work...
It started with enhancing the cockpit by scratch build the whole cockpit tub. I added details according to reference photos. many details was construct using plastic cards,rods, soldering wire, etc.
The progress stops due to having minor fever, I'll proceed with minor touch up and painting process in few days. Stay tuned and I'll shall be back. Meantime, looking at my 1/48th Italeri AC-130 gunship, should it be green-gray-black camo or gunship grey with modernized weapons system...
to be continued.....
Some updates...
Dry fitting...
the wheel was quite a challenge to assemble. some grinding, drilling and lots of aligning and dry fitting but it's worthwhile...
you can see how rough the surface is...
side panels then painted with Flat Aluminium
The instrument dials... I apply blobs of white glue thinned with water to cover the dials before paint the upper panels with Light Grey...
Upper panel painted..
Now peel the white glue from the dials
Violla!... sharp round dials
Sub-assembly - Cockpit
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The cockpit received base color
you can see how rough the surface is...
side panels then painted with Flat Aluminium
Upper panel painted..
Now peel the white glue from the dials
Violla!... sharp round dials
Sub-assembly - Cockpit
Dry fit the whole cockpit...
the seat yet to be toned down... the red cushion is too red..
some decals from spare box to simulate placards..
Now I have to fill in the gap between the instrument panel which is visible in this pic...
Even the original kit doesn't come with that part. So I need to get some plastic card
I cut the shape using piece of paper until i get desired shape and transfer to 0.01 plastic card for the template.
After some trimming and sanding, now i bend the plastic card slowly while gluing section by section with super glue.
once the glue sets, the glare panel is ready but i discover that the canopy is too thick to be in close position. Therefore, some trimming needed for the canopy.
the glare panel is complete
The rudder and stabilizer with photo-etched parts.
Ready for primer
Some gap on the wings...
Checked and ready to go
Painting
I experimenting a technique I've learn through my modeling years.. I wanted to spray the model using lacquer based and normally gloss finish is better achieve by using lacquer or enamel based paint. This is because lacquer and enamel have finer pigments and the paint bond better to plastic rather than acrylic. But this time I would try to paint this one using Tamiya acrylic, which is risky especially when building a trainer aircraft which normally have a gloss finish. But it worth to try and see the result since the subject is consider smaller than average a/c (fighter a/c). So let's see the progress and hopefully it comes out with satisfying results.
first I painted with flat white
then gloss white
note the shingle and gritty finish
Somehow i couldn't get glossy finish with Tamiya acrylic gloss paint.
With the gritty finish, i use old toothbrush and brush lightly to remove the blemish.
Decalling
My favorite part of modelling...
Alright... the decals sheet comes with 2 pcs... first the stencils design for 2 type of trainer (silver & red and blue and red on white) and the other (smaller sheet) the a/c registration. i choose the later. But disaster struck when i first open up the box, the design sheet was bigger than the box and result the big decal sheet crumple and part of the decals become furrowed .. luckily AZ Model gave small amount of spare decals (small rectangular pieces of blue, red and silver). Overall the decals looks thin and crisp printed stencils.
look carefully and you'll see the furrowed part at the side of bigger decal sheet.
applied with care... note on the wrinkle decals on right wing...
Alright, i have to admit the decal application somehow create few problems. The furrowed part of the decal was giving away and end up torn during the application. So 1 problem for me to solve. The other was experimenting the decal solution. I used 2 types to see which is best for this thin crisp decals. First, I used Humbrol on the overall decal application. Gunze Mr.Mark Softer on the edge part of the wings. I always used the safe method.. European kit > i used Humbrol and Japanese kit > i used Gunze. So far the methodology seems fine, but the Humbrol solution dissever Tamiya paint when used too much. The Gunze wrinkled the decal. Probably because it doesn't react well with the decals chemicals. last was the raised detail on the wings and engine muffler. Even with thin decal the it doesn't conform well to the gap. It was a challenge to get even adhesion especially around the tight angle/edges. this is very painstaking process. I have to cut some part into sections and apply separately.
I had to take extreme measures to fix the decals issue. I sanded smooth the area affected with Tamiya 1000 grit sandpaper. this will smoothen the surface for over lapping decal.
the seat yet to be toned down... the red cushion is too red..
some decals from spare box to simulate placards..
Now I have to fill in the gap between the instrument panel which is visible in this pic...
Even the original kit doesn't come with that part. So I need to get some plastic card
I cut the shape using piece of paper until i get desired shape and transfer to 0.01 plastic card for the template.
After some trimming and sanding, now i bend the plastic card slowly while gluing section by section with super glue.
once the glue sets, the glare panel is ready but i discover that the canopy is too thick to be in close position. Therefore, some trimming needed for the canopy.
the glare panel is complete
The rudder and stabilizer with photo-etched parts.
Ready for primer
Some gap on the wings...
Checked and ready to go
Painting
I experimenting a technique I've learn through my modeling years.. I wanted to spray the model using lacquer based and normally gloss finish is better achieve by using lacquer or enamel based paint. This is because lacquer and enamel have finer pigments and the paint bond better to plastic rather than acrylic. But this time I would try to paint this one using Tamiya acrylic, which is risky especially when building a trainer aircraft which normally have a gloss finish. But it worth to try and see the result since the subject is consider smaller than average a/c (fighter a/c). So let's see the progress and hopefully it comes out with satisfying results.
first I painted with flat white
then gloss white
note the shingle and gritty finish
Somehow i couldn't get glossy finish with Tamiya acrylic gloss paint.
With the gritty finish, i use old toothbrush and brush lightly to remove the blemish.
Decalling
My favorite part of modelling...
Alright... the decals sheet comes with 2 pcs... first the stencils design for 2 type of trainer (silver & red and blue and red on white) and the other (smaller sheet) the a/c registration. i choose the later. But disaster struck when i first open up the box, the design sheet was bigger than the box and result the big decal sheet crumple and part of the decals become furrowed .. luckily AZ Model gave small amount of spare decals (small rectangular pieces of blue, red and silver). Overall the decals looks thin and crisp printed stencils.
look carefully and you'll see the furrowed part at the side of bigger decal sheet.
applied with care... note on the wrinkle decals on right wing...
Alright, i have to admit the decal application somehow create few problems. The furrowed part of the decal was giving away and end up torn during the application. So 1 problem for me to solve. The other was experimenting the decal solution. I used 2 types to see which is best for this thin crisp decals. First, I used Humbrol on the overall decal application. Gunze Mr.Mark Softer on the edge part of the wings. I always used the safe method.. European kit > i used Humbrol and Japanese kit > i used Gunze. So far the methodology seems fine, but the Humbrol solution dissever Tamiya paint when used too much. The Gunze wrinkled the decal. Probably because it doesn't react well with the decals chemicals. last was the raised detail on the wings and engine muffler. Even with thin decal the it doesn't conform well to the gap. It was a challenge to get even adhesion especially around the tight angle/edges. this is very painstaking process. I have to cut some part into sections and apply separately.
I had to take extreme measures to fix the decals issue. I sanded smooth the area affected with Tamiya 1000 grit sandpaper. this will smoothen the surface for over lapping decal.
smooth surface for overlapping...
Starboard wing after the "treatment"... I used spare decals and apply on top. However if you look carefully the difference on the color is prominent.
Port wing... not much of a problem...
The "problematic" area...
Once satisfied with the treatment, I apply Humbrol satin coat to sealed the decals.
Now the black anti glare panel... masking time...
sprayed and next...
The decal for the firing was not included. But AZ Models did provide a spare decals maybe for this purposes. Well thoughts AZ Models!
I cut a paper template and transfer to the decal and cut carefully. Any wastages will be crucial and will end up into masking and matching the color and more time wasted...
Starboard wing after the "treatment"... I used spare decals and apply on top. However if you look carefully the difference on the color is prominent.
Port wing... not much of a problem...
The "problematic" area...
Once satisfied with the treatment, I apply Humbrol satin coat to sealed the decals.
Now the black anti glare panel... masking time...
sprayed and next...
The decal for the firing was not included. But AZ Models did provide a spare decals maybe for this purposes. Well thoughts AZ Models!
I cut a paper template and transfer to the decal and cut carefully. Any wastages will be crucial and will end up into masking and matching the color and more time wasted...
2 comments:
add 50 percent gloss coat to paint before spray
hmm... i probably add less than 20% of gloss coat. Maybe too careful not to allow drying time set too long and attract dust onto the models (can't never avoid dust environment ;) )... will try on next project. Thanks for the comments.
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